sOleiLian

Much of Indonesia lies between the Pacific Ring of Fire, a horseshoe-shaped seismic belt in the Pacific basin that is responsible for approximately 90% of the world’s earthquakes and is home to over 75% of the world’s active and dormant volcanoes. Being the world’s largest archipelago, this vast island republic alone boasts some 150 active volcanoes and countless peaks that are either dormant or extinct. Mighty volcanic cones dot its lush, fertile landscape from the northernmost tip of Sumatra in the west and stretches all the way to the Maluku Islands in the east and bends northward towards Sulawesi and the Philippines, another archipelago whose terrain is shaped and dominated by these fearsome natural wonders.

Volcanoes of Indonesia in red; yellow denotes the Philippine volcanoes
(Credits: Global Volcanism Program)

Last year in June, a friend and I took a 6D5N trip to Central and East Java. After a frustrating flight delay and spending two and a half hours in midair across the Java Sea, we finally touched down at the Juanda International Airport in Surabaya, Indonesia’s second largest city and the sprawling capital of the province of East Java. It was already late evening the moment we made an exit from the airport terminal, and the driver whom we’d engaged beforehand through email was anticipating our arrival with his hands holding a placard with my name written on it, as he waited amongst the throng of Indonesian families and taxi drivers.

Even before we alighted from our plane, I’d been hesitating whether to accept the ride as it would be very costly as compared to taking public transport. And since we hadn’t seen each other before, I’d actually come up with the thought of ignoring the driver (sheesh… wasn’t I bad?) and resorting to get a cheaper yet time-consuming ride at the bus terminal instead. However, after taking into consideration the dark environment out there and how tight our itinerary was (one of my biggest regrets ~ I should have extended my trip for at least two days more!), I waved to him rather reluctantly as we pushed our way through the crowds. A decision that came with a hefty price tag ~ definitely not for the budget-minded!

After treating our tummies to a simple meal at a warung (family-owned café) on the outskirts of the city, we immediately embarked on a 4-hour journey to Cemoro Lawang, a charming mountain village some 2000 metres above sea level that serves as the main entrance point to the fantabulous Bromo Tengger Semeru National Park, one of nature’s most wondrous spectacles. This national park is East Java’s biggest attraction, and my deep fascination with volcanoes was what brought me here in the first place.

Café Lava Hostel, our lodging for the night

It was a beautiful full moon night. As our vehicle wandered into the mountains and moved higher in altitude, we turned off the air conditioner and wound down the car windows to let the chilly breeze in. Even though all I could figure out were only dark shadows of the coniferous forests and vegetable farms on the mountain slopes, I was instantly captivated by the views along the way, which were rendered vaguely visible by the soft rays of the moonlight.

We reached Café Lava Hostel at about 12 midnight. To think that we had only less than 3 hours to rest as the sunrise tour we’d signed up for would begin at 3am, paying for a night’s stay wasn’t really worth. But since that was our only option, we were forced to suck that up. Luckily the accommodation was quite okay, and most importantly, there was hot shower! That was the only thing we ever wanted in this chilly mountain weather!

A Tenggerese man selling Bromo knit hats

Our chalet-like room

At 3 in the morning, we were awakened by a knocking on our door, which turned out to be the morning call for our sunrise tour. A jeep would be bringing us to the famous viewpoint on Mt. Penanjakan (2,770m) where we would get a fantastic view of the Tengger massif, the collapsed caldera of a huge ancient volcano from which a number of new cones have emerged, including Mt. Bromo (2,329m) and Mt. Batok (2,470m). Further south lies another volcanic complex that stands the 3,676-metre high Mt. Semeru, Java’s highest mountain. Together, these three volcanoes form the superstars of the bunch and are the easiest to recognize from the viewpoint.

Mt. Bromo is constantly seen ejecting ash into the air, with its last major eruption taking place as recently as this January. Despite this, it remains one of the most accessible volcanoes in Indonesia, and hence the star attraction of the national park. On the other hand, Mt. Batok is famous for its near-perfect cone and stately appearance. Its long period of dormancy has provided its slopes a lush coat of greenery that makes it very photogenic for the cameras. The towering Mt. Semeru is another active cone, and it is a popular choice for tourists and mountaineers who desire to conquer the summit of the highest peak in Java. Both Mt. Bromo and Mt. Semeru derived their names from Hindu-Buddhist traditions: the former from the Hindu creator god Brahma while the latter from Meru/Sumeru, the central world-mountain in the cosmology of the two religions.

On Mt. Penanjakan, stalls and shops had already started operating along the tourist trail in the wee hours of the morning

The full moon lit up the darkness that loomed over the natural spectacle that we were about to witness

Tourists, primarily domestic, had already arrived at the viewpoint even though there was still an hour to go before the break of dawn. It was extremely cold there, and I was told that the temperature was around 10°C, and that it could easily plunge to as low as 5°C on certain nights! Yes, 5 freakin’ degrees Celcius in the tropics!

I wasn’t really prepared for the chilly weather. Besides my cotton jacket which I’d earlier assumed to be sufficient for this, I had no scarf, gloves, nor knit hat with me ~ all of which were essentials! And since taking a good picture is highly dependent on where you’re standing besides your photography skills, I turned on my kiasu (fear of losing) mode and braved the cold for one long hour in order to stand guard on the best spot I managed to get at the viewpoint. And I succeeded! :D

The moment of truth: sunrise at 5am!

Can you imagine how cold it was to be standing right there?

People mountain people sea: see how packed the place was at this hour! I made the right decision in getting myself a great vantage point in front or else I wouldn’t stand a chance to take the pictures I’d envisioned earlier!

That was me beholding the spectacular sight in front of my very eyes

Ladies and gentlemen, presenting to you the one view you must see before you die!
(left: ash-puffing Mt. Bromo; bottom centre: stately Mt. Batok; top centre: majestic Mt. Semeru)

Say hello to the morning sun! :D

The equally impressive surroundings of the Tengger massif

The Penanjakan viewpoint and the crowd

Everyone climbed high and low just to capture that beautiful moment

On our way back to our jeep, we saw vendors roasting corns for the hungry tourists

Jeeps heading down towards the caldera below

Going down and down…

Mt. Batok in front. What a beautiful volcano! :D

c a t e g o r y | passport to nowhere
f l u f f e r p u f f | indonesia . java . parks & gardens . travels . volcanoes

19 sOleiLians

Imagine the big surprise I got when I first heard about this cemetery from a blogger friend several years back. It was through her blog that I came to know about the existence of a small and tight-knit Jewish community back in the colonial days of Penang. I’d repeatedly reminded myself that I must visit this place, and it was not until this August that I finally had the chance to pass through the gates of this well-hidden and relatively unknown cemetery on what used to be called Jalan Yahudi (Jewish Road), a small road in George Town that has since been renamed to Jalan Zainal Abidin.

Welcome to the Penang Jewish Cemetery!

Since the global Islamic revival in the 1970s that resulted from the 1973 Arab oil embargo and the 1979 Islamic Revolution of Iran, Malaysia has seen a sharp rise in religious piety among Muslims and the increasing awareness of the political struggles across the Muslim world. Rising (and often fiery) sentiments against political Zionism and the complications from the ongoing Israeli-Palestinian conflict have taken its toll on the tiny and inconspicuous Malaysian Jewish community, most of whom had either embraced Christianity or had fled to other countries during that period and is now generally assumed to be extinct in Malaysia. Hence, it’s no surprise that Jewish people are always regarded with deep suspicion, and they have always been the convenient scapegoats for almost every social ill in this country.

An earlier plaque stated that the cemetery was established in 1805 instead of 1835. I wonder which one is true…

The cemetery occupies a small plot of land and it could go unnoticed if one isn’t on a lookout for it

In fact, Jews are almost unheard of in Malaysia, and I dare say that more than 98% of Malaysians have never met a Jew in real life, including yours truly. Our general notions of a Jew are overwhelmingly negative and are mostly derived from hearsays, most of which are Government-sanctioned and carry overt political overtones. Respected Muslim intellectuals and clerics have repeatedly stressed the distinction between a Zionist Jew and one that is not, and that the latter deserves all the respect and tolerance from the Muslim community as one of the People of the Book.

This is the oldest grave at the cemetery, which belongs to Mrs. Shoshan Levi, who was said to be an English Jew

A beautiful grave cast in marble and stone

See the wet stain on the tomb? That was because a dog had just peed here! :P

Hebrew inscriptions and the Star of David, both unmistakable Jewish symbols

Yet sadly, most Malaysian Muslims are ignorant of this distinction and they tend to lump both together. The Jews (Zionist or not) are often pejoratively called kaum laknat (cursed people) and the locals have been brainwashed to believe that they have fallen from the grace of God and therefore eternally damned to Hellfire. So don’t be shocked when even a young Muslim child in Malaysia would be able to tell you this. That’s how far the ideology goes in this country.

By the way, did you know that the 1st Vice-Chancellor of the country’s premier tertiary institution, Universiti Malaya, was the world-renowned British mathematician Dato’ Sir Alexander Oppenheim, who so happened to be a Jew? Ah… Another fact that is mummed and hidden from the public.

The grandfather’s grave

The grandson’s grave next to his

Just when I thought the last burial at the Penang Jewish Cemetery took place several decades ago, I was surprised to learn that a Jew was recently laid to rest in the week prior to my visit! He turned out to be Mordecai David Mordecai, known affectionately as Uncle Mordy, who passed away just short of his 90th birthday. Known as the last Jew in Penang, he was buried at this cemetery alongside his parents. With his passing, the only Jew known to hold a Malaysian passport is his niece Tefa Ephraim, who serves as the custodian of the cemetery and now lives in Sydney, Australia. Interestingly, she speaks Malay, English, Hokkien, and Iraqi Judeo-Arabic ~ now that’s very Malaysian! :D

Uncle Mordy’s grave. R.I.P.

Besides the Penang Jewish Cemetery, there also used to be a Jewish synagogue on Jalan Nagore in another part of George Town, which had ceased to function as a place of worship in 1976 due to a lack of quorum and was subsequently turned into a photography studio by the new owner. It is certainly great to learn that Jalan Nagore has been declared a Jewish enclave by the Penang Heritage Trust in a move to preserve the island’s Jewish heritage. At least the Jewish community is accepted as a part of Penang’s vibrant history when the rest of the country refuses to recognize it.

Simple, unadorned tombstones

A bigger one, perhaps hailing from a wealthy background

I even saw coconuts there! :D

The biggest irony: the futuristic tower that belongs to the ruling party that actively pursues anti-Semitic policies is just a stone’s throw away from the Jewish cemetery!

Amen to that!

Before we left, I asked the Indian caretaker of the cemetery whether any politician had paid a high-profile visit to the cemetery before. The answer was a firm ‘no’, and I wasn’t even surprised by that. Knowing the hostile political climate and negative stereotypes we have of the Jewish people, what more can we expect from our politicians?

The shack that belongs to the family that helps to take care of this cemetery

Shaded path

One of the family’s naughty and playful dogs

The least I can do is to pray for peace to return to the Holy Land as soon as possible and that people in this country would realize that not all Jews are evil blood-sucking demons, but are just the same as you and me. And if any of you happen to drop by Penang for a holiday, please include the Penang Jewish Cemetery on your list of places to see! :)

For those interested in learning more about the Malaysian Jews, here are some online references:

• History of the Jews in Malaysia
• The last Jew to leave Penang
• One family’s world of Judaism in Malaysia

c a t e g o r y | passport to nowhere
f l u f f e r p u f f | cemeteries . malaysia . penang . religions & spirituality . society . travels

16 sOleiLians

November 8th is a significant day in my life. Well, at least for the past 5 years.

Today, I mark my 5th anniversary of becoming a vegetarian, or as the community terms it, my veggieversary. It’s been a pretty long ride, but I never expected this day to come so soon. Half a decade happened to whiz past me just like that! Kinda unbelievable. One thing’s for sure, I’m glad that life’s been treating me good and hasn’t forsaken me for choosing to walk the path less travelled. :)

Precisely two months ago, after being inspired by a friend’s article on her journey to vegetarianism, I’d actually gone to churn out a lengthy piece on this topic and had it posted on Facebook. In order to commemorate this occasion, I’m gonna repost it here on my blog to shed you some insight on my own story.

And to prevent you guys from dozing off while reading this, I’ve decided to insert some pictures of my cooking  (yes, I do cook, which I deem it a necessary skill since the day I left home to study in Penang). This proves that am not your typical machismo male, muahaha!

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“Why did you become a vegetarian?”

Almost all the time, people would pop me that question whenever they get to know that I am a vegetarian. To be honest, I find it rather annoying to be asked the same question over and over again like they’ve never met one before. And to save myself from all the lengthy explanations, I usually just shrug it off by replying, “No particular reason. I just chose to become one, naturally!”

Well of course, this unusual answer tends to leave most of them puzzled. Most non-vegetarians would like to think there is a reason behind one’s decision to become a vegetarian, like health, environmental, or religious reasons. Ain’t it?

So is that really my reason?

Fusilli Aglio e Olio with an assortment of vegetables

I’ll be marking my 5th vegetarian anniversary (how time flies!) just two months from now. In these 5 long years, I’d tried experimenting around with various forms of vegetarianism, and eventually found one that suits me the most, which is ovo-lacto vegetarianism (basically, that means a vegetarian diet + egg and dairy products).

And yes, please don’t falsely accuse me again for violating my vegetarian vows whenever you catch me enjoying my omelettes and cheese. (This is for the annoying folks that love to act smart like they understand vegetarianism better than I do. Gimme a break, puh-leez.) I’m not a vegan (pure vegetarian diet without animal products) though I’d love to see me becoming one one day. And for your knowledge, I do take garlic, onions, and other fetid vegetables usually avoided by Mahayana Buddhist vegetarians.

So what made me one?

Vegetable udon soup

Obviously, I was not doing so for religious reasons. And I wasn’t this hero who would walk this path alone due to his conviction that vegetarianism would help combat the mass cruelty in the meat industry or as a solution to the increasingly ailing world that we all live in.

Vegetable curry stew

Before becoming a vegetarian, I wasn’t really a big meat eater who craved for meat 3 meals per day. However, I did enjoy having chicken drumsticks every now and then, be it the usual economy rice or my favourite herbal chicken kway teow soup. But the craving stopped there; I did not crave for more.

Thai curry stew with spinach noodles

My mum turned to vegetarianism half a year before me, and of course, she indirectly influenced my later decision to become one. However, when making a crucial decision that would affect the rest of my life like this, I’d let no one influence me by whatever means. I was to become a vegetarian because I wanted to, not because my mum (or whoever) asked me to.

I lived and ate almost like a vegetarian for one whole month. And finally on November 8th, 2006, I decided to take that giant leap, leaving my meat-eating days behind. I officially became a vegetarian.

Bruschetta (using baguette bought from Tesco) and borscht soup

For many newcomers to the vegetarian club, they would ocassionally crave for meat, be it chicken, beef, pork, or fish. As for me, the transition from my omnivorous days to vegetarianism went pretty smooth. It was probably because I wasn’t really a biggggggggg fan of meat in the first place. I treated meat like any other dishes ~ they could be there on my dining table or none at all. So I guess I wasn’t lying when I told other people that I became a vegetarian naturally, without any particular reason!

Garlic bread

Speaking of health, I’ve never been healthier than this before. Even before I became a vegetarian, fever or sickness was rarely in my dictionary, and now, it’s almost non-existent. For the record, I haven’t been falling sick for almost 2 years. And I haven’t been seeing a doc for medical reasons for more than half a decade. Besides, I don’t (or extremely seldom) take pills. I usually let my body recover naturally.

When I was rushing for my assignments and had to stay up for the whole night and only got to sleep in the morning for less than 3 hours each day for 3 whole weeks, I was amazed to find that I was still going strong while friends around me who didn’t have to go through the same torture would – to my surprise – fall sick one after another within that same period. That pretty much does say something, doesn’t it?

Borscht with macaroni

Regarding my dietary belief, I don’t usually go around to preach in the hope of converting meat eaters to the vegetarian fold. I understand how annoying and intrusive it could be by zealously promoting your ideology to others, just like the pesky evangelists who never seem to tire when proselytising to me.

I want to be respected for my choice of vegetarianism just like others who want to have theirs respected. I could only pray silently that humanity would renounce the temptations of meat and embrace a vegetarian way of life at least for the sake of the poor animals or the environment.

Omelette

It is to my utmost delight that there are now at least 7 members in my extended family, including yours truly, have adopted a vegetarian (of one form or another) way of life. I really hope more and more family members as well as friends around us would join us one day.

And with this piece, I hope that any enquiry regarding my vegetarianism gets answered, once and for all.

c a t e g o r y | life as a student . veggie me . yummylicious
f l u f f e r p u f f | food . university life . vegetarianism

21 sOleiLians