Great churches of Manado

Indonesia is home to the world’s largest Muslim population, with those professing the Islamic faith numbered at over 200 million. While most of its Islamic heartlands lie in the more populous western provinces, the vast island republic’s small but burgeoning Christian population finds solace and greater political autonomy in the far-flung islands of the east.

Religious distribution in Indonesia

Religious distribution in Indonesia. The colours indicate the area’s predominant religion.
(Credits: United Nations Development Programme Indonesia)

The Indonesian Government officially recognizes Christianity as 2 separate entities ~ Roman Catholicism and Protestantism. The former was introduced by the Portuguese (notable efforts were carried out by the renowned 16th-century Jesuit missionary, St. Francis Xavier in the Maluku Islands) while the latter arrived with the Dutch who later ruled the archipelago for three and a half centuries. As a result of being a former Dutch stronghold and an important Christian missionary centre during the colonial era, more than 70% of North Sulawesi’s inhabitants are Christian, rendering it the only Christian-predominant province out of Sulawesi’s 6 provinces. The Minahasans, the province’s largest ethnic group, built one of Indonesia’s largest Protestant churches, the Calvinist GMIM (abbreviation of Gereja Masehi Injili di Minahasa, the Christian Evangelical Church in Minahasa).

In North Sulawesi, you won’t feel like you’re in Muslim Indonesia, but rather somewhere in the Philippines albeit with a strong Protestant flavour. There are churches, plenty of churches wherever you go. For Malaysians, try replacing every surau/musolla/mosque you see on any stretch of road in the country with a church and that’s what you get, North Sulawesi. The province is further divided into 9 regencies, and the regency of Minahasa boasts one of the highest proportions of Christian adherents in the country (a staggering 97%!) as well as having the highest density of church buildings in Indonesia, with approximately one church for every 100m road. This is totally not an exaggeration. During our stay there, we saw churches being built right opposite each other, only to be separated by a road; churches built adjacent to each other; churches set apart by one or two homes, etc.

Being the provincial capital, Manado is home to some of the largest churches in the region. Most of the great churches are concentrated along the iconic Sam Ratulangi Street. Besides the Roman Catholic Church and the GMIM, various Christian denominations are also represented, including the Seventh Day Adventist, the Pentecostals, the Salvation Army, the Assemblies of God (known as Gereja Sidang-sidang Jemaat Allah in Indonesia), and so on. Priests and pastors of the empty churches in the West would have envied the vigorous religious scene in this part of the world: churches are jam-packed with believers during mass and church services, and every Christian home is adorned with crucifixes and biblical-themed paintings and artworks.

Cathedral Church of the Immaculate Heart of Mary (Gereja Hati Tersuci Maria), Manado, North Sulawesi, Indonesia

Roman Catholic Cathedral Church of the Immaculate Heart of Mary (Gereja Hati Tersuci Maria), more commonly referred to as the Manado Cathedral

Cathedral Church of the Immaculate Heart of Mary (Gereja Hati Tersuci Maria), Manado, North Sulawesi, Indonesia

The cathedral’s main façade. I bet it’d look splendid once the scaffolding is removed.

Cathedral Church of the Immaculate Heart of Mary (Gereja Hati Tersuci Maria), Manado, North Sulawesi, Indonesia

A magnificent dome crowned the top of the cathedral, and its stone walls and stained glass windows gave it a distinctive European touch amidst a tropical setting

Cathedral Church of the Immaculate Heart of Mary (Gereja Hati Tersuci Maria), Manado, North Sulawesi, Indonesia

The bell tower up close

Cathedral Church of the Immaculate Heart of Mary (Gereja Hati Tersuci Maria), Manado, North Sulawesi, Indonesia

The nave leading to the apse

Cathedral Church of the Immaculate Heart of Mary (Gereja Hati Tersuci Maria), Manado, North Sulawesi, Indonesia

Lights streamed in through the windows and glass at the base of the dome

Cathedral Church of the Immaculate Heart of Mary (Gereja Hati Tersuci Maria), Manado, North Sulawesi, Indonesia

Biblical tales depicted on the window glass

Christian Evangelical Church in Minahasa (Gereja Masehi Injili di Minahasa), Manado, North Sulawesi, Indonesia

A few steps away from the cathedral stood this large GMIM church

Christian Evangelical Church in Minahasa (Gereja Masehi Injili di Minahasa), Manado, North Sulawesi, Indonesia

Catholic and Protestant churches side by side: Can you spot the Manado Cathedral too?

Christian Evangelical Church in Minahasa (Gereja Masehi Injili di Minahasa), Manado, North Sulawesi, Indonesia

The church with its multiple spires, a common characteristic of GMIM churches

Pentecostal church, Manado, North Sulawesi, Indonesia

A night shot of this Pentecostal church was shown in the previous blog entry

Christian Evangelical Church in Minahasa (Gereja Masehi Injili di Minahasa), Manado, North Sulawesi, Indonesia

Mikrolets whizzed past this contemporary GMIM church

Christian Evangelical Church in Minahasa (Gereja Masehi Injili di Minahasa), Manado, North Sulawesi, Indonesia

Beautiful fairy-tale-like GMIM church in another part of Manado

Christian Evangelical Church in Minahasa (Gereja Masehi Injili di Minahasa), Manado, North Sulawesi, Indonesia

Bringing back the nostalgia of the Dutch colonial era through its architecture

Christian Evangelical Church in Minahasa (Gereja Masehi Injili di Minahasa), Manado, North Sulawesi, Indonesia

A castle? A palace? Nope, it’s a church! :D

Compilation of MANADO & NORTH SULAWESI TRIP 2009




c a t e g o r y | passport to nowhere
f l u f f e r p u f f | . . . .

22 sOleiLians

22 sOleiLians

  1. tuti | December 19th, 2009 | 0:47

    very beautiful architecture in all.
    so cute, this post all religious houses.
    .-= tuti´s freshest bake… =-.

  2. kyh | December 19th, 2009 | 1:26

    5 chups!

    You’re so cute for using the word ‘cute’ to describe this post! :D

  3. Selba | December 19th, 2009 | 8:25

    Wow! Great post and also very informative about the religions in Indonesia.. Good job, Kyh!

    Isn’t it so interesting to visit Manado? I would love to visit it someday… Btw, did you visit Bunaken also? Guess have to wait for the coming posts :)

  4. kyh | December 19th, 2009 | 14:36

    3 chups!

    Thanks. I hope I didn’t provide the wrong information, LOL!

    Wow… I’ve never thought that I’d beat an Indonesian in visiting Manado first! :P And yup, Bunaken is comin’ up soon! ;)

  5. day-dreamer | December 19th, 2009 | 23:24

    Architect memang architect…

  6. eastcoastlife | December 19th, 2009 | 23:33

    In Indonesia? Wow. The churches are beautiful.
    I heard about this town but have yet to visit it.
    .-= eastcoastlife´s freshest bake… =-.

  7. kyh | December 20th, 2009 | 0:02

    day-dreamer: 1 chup!

    Who says you need to be an architect to appreciate the beauty of churches and other buildings? ;)

    eastcoastlife: Yup, in Indonesia! People don’t usually associate churches with Indonesia, do they? LOL!

  8. foongpc | December 20th, 2009 | 1:28

    Beautiful photos of churches! I like! : )
    .-= foongpc´s freshest bake… =-.

  9. My Kafkaesque Life | December 20th, 2009 | 1:53

    I must say you have written a very nice piece, I didn’t know that in Sulawesi you have such churches.
    .-= My Kafkaesque Life´s freshest bake… =-.

  10. kyh | December 20th, 2009 | 2:12

    foongpc: Glad you like them! :)

    My Kafkaesque Life: Thank you! I didn’t know it either, until I took a trip there with my friends! :)

  11. Zhu | December 20th, 2009 | 4:26

    I stared at the map at the top for two good minutes – wow, what a mix of beliefs!

    I’m sure it’s not all good and easy but somewhat, it makes me believe that we can all live together and believe in whatever we want (or nothing at all!).
    .-= Zhu´s freshest bake… =-.

  12. kyh | December 20th, 2009 | 6:44

    With such a hodgepodge of religions, religious tensions and riots are inevitable. There had been sporadic religious violence in territories where the numbers of Christians and Muslims were equal, such as the Maluku Islands and Central Sulawesi, and things turned for the worst with the sudden emergence of Islamist militia in the affected areas. Thankfully, these regions had since returned to peacefulness like they once were.

  13. Vagabonde | December 20th, 2009 | 6:57

    I came via RennyBA’s Terella blog. What an interesting post you wrote – I learned a lot. I was in Indonesia on vacation quite a few years ago but only went to Jakarta, Yogyakarta (Borobudur) and Bali. I did not realize there were so many Christians, and vigorously practicing too. At work, we had an instructor who went to Italy to train some students. When he came back I asked what surprised him the most about Italy – I was surprised when he said that there were hardly anyone in the churches on Sunday (he is Catholic) I thought he would talk about food or something else. He was in Pisa. It’s the same in France, just one big church which has been there for centuries for thousands of people. Well, whatever makes people happy I guess.
    .-= Vagabonde´s freshest bake… =-.

  14. Khengsiong | December 20th, 2009 | 9:10

    Hi kyh,
    I know you are a future architect, so you like to see the churches. Any interesting natural sceneries there?
    .-= Khengsiong´s freshest bake… =-.

  15. kyh | December 20th, 2009 | 15:49

    Vagabonde: Hello there! Thanks for dropping by. :)

    Oh lucky you! I’m going to Surabaya and Yogyakarta next June. And yes, there are many Christians in Indonesia though they’re largely outnumbered by their Muslim brethren. Furthermore, most of them tend to live in the eastern provinces although you can easily find one in the big cities of Indonesia.

    By the way, thanks for sharing the story. Very interesting! ;)

    Khengsiong: Relax, dude! They will be up real soon. :D

  16. Vagabonde | December 20th, 2009 | 22:24

    Hello Kyh – Thank you for coming to my blog. I appreciate your telling me the right way to say Merry Christmas in the Malay language. I corrected my post. I was born in France but have been living in the USA for many years. I have dual citizenship. While my mother was alive I used to go to Paris twice a year but she passed away in 2002, so I have been back only 3 times. I hope you get to go to France someday, you would enjoy the architecture. I also am interested in cultural structures. I have done posts on my blog on castles and old southern plantations. I just visited the Georgia Governor’s Mansion in Atlanta and shall write a post on it next week. I hope you’ll stop by again.
    .-= Vagabonde´s freshest bake… =-.

  17. RennyBA's Terella | December 21st, 2009 | 22:27

    What an interesting and readable post. I’ve never been to your part of the world, but you tempt me to go – so exotic to a Norwegian you know.

    What a beautiful church – great architecture and you’ve captured it so well.

  18. kyh | December 22nd, 2009 | 2:59

    Vagabonde: You’re welcome. ;)

    So you’re a French American, eh? It’s so cool! Oh yes, I’ll definitely visit France one day. Tell you what, France has always been my #1 dream destination. I’m a Francophile by heart and soul, and I love its architecture, be it the great cathedrals, the grandiose châteaux, or the simple village houses in the countryside.

    Don’t worry, girl. I’ll drop by your blog if I happen to blog hop! :)

    RennyBA’s Terella: My pleasure. So do we have the honour to see your appearance in Southeast Asia again? ;)

  19. claudie | December 23rd, 2009 | 7:04

    I’ve never seen so many churches at a place! I find this post very instructive! just one wish is that all the religions can live in peace together and accept them each others. In France religion is a private thing. First all Our society is laïc. Islamic is the second religion practised after the roman church. State begins to build mosques in big towns so that muslins have places to practice. Myself I don’t practice since I am often surprised hearing some catholics with ideas I don’t share; Just those days with the last polemic with Benoit XVI and the beatification of Pie XII (and the problem with him at the time of the shoah)http://www.lemonde.fr/societe/article/2009/12/21/benoit-xvi-ravive-la-polemique-sur-le-role-de-pie-xii-durant-la-shoah_1283466_3224.html
    but I really adore visiting churches and admiring the different architectures and Manado is really the place to visit!
    .-= claudie´s freshest bake… =-.

  20. kyh | December 23rd, 2009 | 13:09

    Thanks for sharing. I can see France is really a staunch secular nation! ;)

  21. day-dreamer | December 24th, 2009 | 21:54

    My “architect memang architect” actually meant take photos also take all architectural structures :P

  22. kyh | December 26th, 2009 | 6:05

    This post is about churches ma, of course must show the church buildings and their architecture, LOL!

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