Lembah Bujang: Kingdom lost . kingdom found
How much do you know about Malaysia’s past? For many Malaysians, the de facto history of this country began with the emergence of the Sultanate of Malacca in the early 15th century, followed by four and a half centuries of successive European imperialism until the declaration of independence from the dismantling British Empire in 1957.
So does that mean we don’t have any history before that?
On our way to historic Lembah Bujang: a lush paddy field in Yan district, Kedah
In actual fact, we do have a rich and illustrious past, but sadly this part of history is often overlooked and hasn’t been given enough attention and emphasis to leave a lasting impression on the minds of the people. Here’s my rant: unlike other countries in the region which share similar cultural backgrounds (say, Indonesia), Malaysia pretty much scorns her pre-Islamic past and anything that is associated with that spiritually unenlightened period. One thousand years of history prior to Malacca’s rise to power and glory is being deliberately washed down the drain, leaving it largely ignored, forgotten, and erased from popular memory.
Merbok town, gateway to the archaeologically rich Lembah Bujang complex
Here’s another lesser known fact: when the Sultanate of Malacca was founded by the Sumatran prince Parameswara in 1402, it was first established as a Hindu kingdom before becoming an Islamic sultanate in 1409 upon the prince’s marriage to a Muslim princess of Pasai and his simultaneous conversion to Islam (though some disputed his conversion as there is no clear evidence that he had actually converted; his actual grave is still yet to be found. Had he remained a Hindu, it is likely that his body was cremated in accordance to Hindu rites, which would then explain the missing grave.)
And did you know that the 2nd and 4th sultans of Malacca were practising Hindus despite assuming Muslim royal titles and names? This, along with the 7-year gap of the kingdom’s Hindu beginnings are muted and not mentioned even once in our history books. You be the judge.
The small and unpretentious Archaeology Museum of Bujang Valley. Admission is free as the tourism potentials of Lembah Bujang aren’t fully developed and exploited yet.
Now let’s get back to the topic. Lembah Bujang (Bujang Valley), situated in my home state of Kedah, is the richest archaeological area to be unearthed in Malaysia. Spanning a period of almost 1,500 years, the sprawling 224km² ancient complex is one of the early Indianized settlements to flourish in the Malay Peninsula, together with other legendary lost kingdoms like Langkasuka (Kedah-Pattani), Pan Pan (Kelantan/Terengganu), Chi Tu (Kelantan/Pahang/Songkhla-Pattani), and Gangga Negara (Perak). It is believed to be a part of Kadaram (Old Kedah), the ancient civilization that preceded the modern-day Sultanate of Kedah.
The expansion of Indian maritime trades throughout that period resulted in the adoption of Indian cultural and political models by all these kingdoms, a move that left a significant impact on the development of the language and culture of the Malay people up to the present day. The rulers and subjects of that period were either Hindu or Buddhist ~ both great Indian exports, but the arrival of Islam in the second millennium and the creation of new Muslim states soon brought to the eventual demise of the indigenous Malay Hindu-Buddhist civilizations.
Ancient Hindu bas-reliefs
These delicate Buddhist relics allow us a rare glimpse of the superb craftsmanship of the ancient Malay artisans
A miniature model of the Hindu Candi Bukit Batu Pahat (candi: ancient temple), the mother temple in Lembah Bujang. Its precise construction date is disputed; the temple was built either in the 7th-8th century or more recently in the 12th-13th century.
Important archaeological finds in Kedah, mostly concentrated in Lembah Bujang, where the banks of the Merbok River provided a great and fertile environment for early settlements and trades
3rd-century remains of the Perahu Sagor (Sagor Boat), a traditional sailing boat made from a single log and was the main transportation used by the locals to trade at the Merbok River estuary in Lembah Bujang
A forward-thinking country that appreciates her past, good or bad, would not hesitate to tap on the huge tourism potentials of such a rich historic site by vigorously promoting it to the whole world. But I don’t see that happening here. Why isn’t the Malaysian Government putting enough effort into this? Of all major Malaysian tourism promotional materials and advertisements, I don’t even see a shadow of Lembah Bujang nor the mere mention of its name. This is so utterly ridiculous!
It is beyond me why there are people in this world that would allow their perception of faith to manipulate their views to the extent that they are ever ready to sacrifice a nation’s cultural wealth and heritage. These precious archaeological ruins and finds are of universal value, meant to be shared, treasured, and appreciated by all. Yet unfortunately, all I see is just nonchalance. How can I not be pissed?!
Hindu Candi Pendiat, believed to be built in the 11th century. A shelter has been erected to protect its ruins from rain or shine.
A commanding entrance to the largest and most important temple discovered in Lembah Bujang, Candi Bukit Batu Pahat
Found by the Cambridge-educated Dr. Quaritch Wales in the mid-1930s, the collapsed temple was reconstructed in 1960 at its original place
Archaeological research shows that the roof was made of palm leaves with 66 pillar bases, but like the rest of the temple ruins in Lembah Bujang, its wooden roofing had since rotted and withered due to the onslaught of age and weather over the past one thousand years
The reconstruction of this 11th-century Buddhist Candi Pengkalan Bujang made it look pretty new and recent
The distinctive reddish appearance of this Hindu Candi Bendang Dalam is due to the laterite bricks used in its construction
Today, all these temple ruins are situated on a small hill facing Gunung Jerai, Kedah’s tallest peak. On most days, you’ll find yourself being the only visitor here due to the Government’s lackadaisical effort in promoting this place as a potential tourist destination.
Of all my years growing up in the state of Kedah, I’m embarrassed to admit that this was actually my first time visiting this wonderful heritage site. Being a Kedah native, it had always been one of my biggest dreams to touch and feel the ancient grounds of Lembah Bujang. You wouldn’t know how thrilled, touched, and inspired I was the moment I made it there. Now that I’d accomplished this task, I feel that I have a strong sense of duty to promote this severely underrated destination to everyone around me, Malaysians and non-Malaysians alike.
Being a Kedahan, a Malaysian, and a nobody who views cultural heritage as something that is almost as precious as his own life, all I can wish is for this place to be accorded the special recognition that it so deserves.
In Sungai Batu in another part of Lembah Bujang, ongoing excavation works carried out by my university’s archaeological team and Malaysia’s Department of National Heritage have recently unearthed one of the most important and exciting archaeological discoveries in Malaysia
Buried beneath the vast oil palm plantation is this Sungai Batu Monument which dates back 1,900 years to the year 110 A.D. (a contemporary of the Roman Empire, friends!), making it the earliest man-made structure to be recorded in the whole of Southeast Asia. Now that’s really something, isn’t it? :D
Archaeological grid system to ease excavation works and study
The oldest of all: the Sungai Batu Monument came head to head with other significant ancient Hindu-Buddhist monuments in Southeast Asia
An iron smelting site from the 11th-13th century
There are probably more ruins underneath this road, I was told! :(
More excavation works on the other side of the road. Spotted here was a skinny cow and its calf.
Mystical Gunung Jerai, a mountain considered so sacred by the ancient Malays that they built temples from the foothills up to its summit
On our way back home, we briefly stopped at my paternal grandmother’s childhood home. My first time here! :D
My grandma used to work at this tobacco barn when she was young where her job was to dry the tobacco leaves on these long sticks!
I hope by writing this piece, this forlorn place named Lembah Bujang will get a little more attention in the blogosphere (and beyond), especially from those who love and care about history and heritage. I hereby beseech all of you to set foot in this place at least once in your lifetime. Seriously, it has got all it takes to become Malaysia’s next premier tourist destination!
Rumours have it that the Government has plans to propose to UNESCO for Lembah Bujang and the Sungai Batu Archaeological Site to be inscribed on the World Heritage List. If it’s true, I’d definitely throw my full support behind this proposal! In terms of historical and archaeological value, the sleepy ruins of Lembah Bujang certainly beat Malacca and George Town hands down. There’s no doubt about it!
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c a t e g o r y | passport to nowhere
f l u f f e r p u f f | kedah . malaysia . museums . religions & spirituality . society . temples & wats . travels
32 sOleiLians
32 sOleiLians
Leave a reply
FIRST!!!
Wow! So they erased that rich history that could have made our history books so much more interesting? Tsk tsk!
Oh my, I have never been to Lembah Bujang though I have heard about it last time. Thanks for sharing : )
Make sure you make a visit there! We Malaysians ought to know more about this place and its history. :)
It’s always interesting to go back to your roots, isn’t it!
When we were in Malaysia I tried to learn a bit more about the country’s history and you’re right, no so much is said before modern times. It’s such a fascinating place though…
The people here seriously need to change their mindset. Many a time they’re too narrow-minded to the point that they can’t seem to get themselves to allow or accommodate other world views other than their own.
Things we do not learn in school…nor can we find in the History books. This is so interesting. Near Sungai Petani? I must try to go and visit should I happen to be there next year when my daughter goes back to SP for her final year…
Yes, quite near to Sungai Petani! The entrance to the place is via Merbok town. :)
Great entry. Looks like you put a lot of thought, time and effort into it… but hmmm, I think George Town/Penang has its merits as well, not just Lembah Bujang. But then I’m probably showing my bias as a Penangite! ;b
Haha… I love George Town as well, but the major problem that plagues the city besides the mediocre public transport system is over-commercialization ~ there are way too many shopping malls and ridiculously-priced condominiums! These are all so unnecessary; George Town (and many parts of Penang) should be planned systematically and accordingly to meet the needs of the people and not to turn into an exclusive playground for the rich and famous! The city is gradually losing her heritage charm and human character that first won her the coveted UNESCO World Heritage Listing! :(
I understand how you feel but the winners, be they political or religious, always want to destroy the past which did not include them. Do you remember how the Taliban dynamited the Buddhas of Bamiyan in Afghanistan? The Turks also destroyed countless monasteries and churches of Armenians after the genocide. This is the way it goes. They do not like these facts to be in history books either. Well, on another subject, I did not know until I came to the US that it was the US immigrants who killed most of the Native Americans. All of this is so sad.
Yet the saddest part is that these are the works and legacy left by their ancestors, and certainly not by some unknown aliens or foreigners who happened to stay here!
Yeah… Very sad indeed. Historical facts could be so brutal and inhuman that more often than not we choose to live in denial and ignorance by covering up the facts or twisting them to suit our own interests.
“And did you know that the 2nd and 4th sultans of Malacca were practising Hindus despite assuming Muslim royal titles and names?”
Not surprising. It’s said that the first Christian emperor of Roman Empire still worshiped Sun God. That’s why Sunday, rather than Saturday, was made the holy day of the week.
All I can say is the sanctity of religion was being abused and exploited for political means (it’s always been the most powerful political tool, ain’t it?).
we did study this in mly history actually, form one, same chapters as sri vijaya / majapahit. was there many2 years ago, improved a lot. don’t think they would promote it a lot with its hindu roots.
If the Government were to continue playing with the clichéd racial and religious sentiments from politics right down to the national heritage and education, I’m afraid the future generations would be left completely ignorant of the rich history of their ancestors. :(
You definitely taught me about Lembah Bujang today! So you are Kedah Lang and I am Penang Kia. I studied in St Xavier’s Institution for 11 years and often could see Kedah Peak from my school. Today I am amazed that it has historical sites around there! I wanna go take a look someday.
Please do so! You won’t regret it. ;)
do you have any ideas what happened to the large hindu ancients sites in johor believed to have been built by the king raja raja cholan.it came out in main streamnewpapers for few days and then disappeared. no news since then.another propaganda?
Nope, I don’t know. I did learn about the news but I didn’t get to follow up with it. Sorry about that! :)
U’re my hero
You’re funny! :)
a very good write up…i wasnt aware of all this too till i heard bout it on radio..then found ur blog while i googled it. hope lembah bujang gets more attention
Thanks. I hope so too! :)
Very interesting to note the presence of Indian Hindus in the peninsula Malaya in the 6th-7th Century, especially by the invasion of Rajendra Cholan I and Klothungga Cholan. That shows we Indians we once the rulers of part of the peninsula but we are not given the bumiputra status now, only the Portugest are given as they only came in the YEAR 1511. Very sad indeed to note that we are now treated as 3rd class people in Malaysia. Srivijaya Kingdom once ruled South East Asia was also a Hindu Kingdom of Pallava rulers. They were also popular in Indo- China were they ruled Cambodia where today you find all the hindu temples of which the largest one and one of the wonders of the world is the Angkor Watt built by Jayavarman II. Every hindus must visit Angkor Watt to find out how our Indians ruled the country during the 6th century.
Thanks for your comment.
Srivijaya was a primarily Buddhist Malay empire. However, Parameswara was a Hindu.
The people who built Angkor were Indianized in culture and beliefs, but they were not ethnically Indian.
Ok, first of all the so call ‘large hindu ancients sites in johor believed to have been built by the king raja raja cholan’ is actually a buddhist site and it was build by the Mon-malay people where in modern day we call them as ‘Siamese’.The site is already mention in the malay annal ‘Sejarah Melayu’that was written in 16 century. Second of all, K. Ramachandran sir, there are no Indian ruler in southeast asia not until Rajendra Chola sail with his army to conquer Sriwijayan colony all across Peninsular until Sumatra.There is only Indianized ruler but not ethnically Indian.The only Indian in southeast asia are mostly scholar and saint to help the local to learn about Hindu-Buddhist religion.
Here is some of the information that I found in Tamil Articles:
N.J.RYAN argues that in KEDAH in the North-West of the Malaysian peninsula, there was no large immigration of Indian settlers; rather there was the influence of traders and missionaries. These people, rather like the Europeans in later centuries, were responsible for popularizing their way of life and religion. Many inhabitants – Malay by race – became Hindu or Buddhists, and they built the temples whose remains have been found in KEDAH. Thus the population of KEDAH for example, did not change, and CHINESE REPORTS affirm that the native societies had ADOPTED Indian culture but had NOT BECOME INDIAN COLONIES.
[1976:8]
Further read:
http://stateless.freehosting.net/TAMILINFLUENCEMALAY.htm
Dani: Thank you for your input.
Amazing article. You vent out your feelings of the negligence. Its understandable. I believe the status will be same unless until the religious mind become broader.
Saravanan´s freshest bake…
Sad reality, isn’t it?
Hi as a form 4 student researching a paper about Lembah Bujang, I came upon your blog while googling. I just want to point out that Lembah Bujang IS featured in our Sejarah textbook under Tamdaun Awal Asia Tenggara, albeit just a subtopic. But i agree with your comment about how Lembah Bujang is rarely mentioned as it is just 1 topic in form 4 sejarah text book, and also a small part in form 1 sejarah. Really good article though :)
Hello! Ah yes, I remembered reading about that small chapter on Lembah Bujang in our history text books, but still, its presence is so inconspicuous when compared to other bigger topics, like the history of Islam and our struggle for national independence. The significance of the early civilizations of Malaysia is being horrendously downplayed for the most part and that is what I’m fighting against. :)