Abodes where angels dwell
PENANG HERITAGE TRAIL: PART III
Religion. Faith. Spirituality. These are some of the things that have never failed to fascinate me since I was young. Those who have known me long enough will know my unfaltering passion for religion, a timeless belief system that far transcends our comprehension regarding the origins of life and the world around us. Whether it’s creation or evolution, resurrection or reincarnation, it’s a never-ending debate.
If Penang is the microcosm of Malaysia, then naturally George Town is the microcosm of Penang. Besides Kuala Lumpur and Malacca, no where else in Malaysia if not Penang that’s seen the rich confluence of religions and the traces left behind by the diverse religious communities. Buddhists, Christians, Hindus, Muslims, Sikhs, and even Jews have all thrived on this tiny piece of land surrounded by seas. Each of these communities not only helped Penang to prosper in its nascent years, but also enriched its cultural and social fabric to this very day.
As an architecture undergraduate, I have to say that of all architectural styles in the world, nothing impresses me more than religious architecture. I’m an ardent fan of traditional European architecture (Byzantine, Romanesque, Gothic, Renaissance, Baroque, Neoclassicism), and more often than not, these architectural styles are pushed to greater heights in church buildings (think St. Peter’s Basilica and Duomo di Milano). It’s interesting to note that the Roman Catholic Church, being a major religious institution, was particularly instrumental in preserving and cultivating European art and architecture during Europe’s Golden Age.
The state capital of Penang is itself an architectural gem in Malaysia. Besides boasting some of the most exquisite colonial-era monuments in the country, George Town is also home to a number of historic houses of worship which have continued to serve the city’s faithful uninterruptedly for centuries.
Cathedral of the Assumption
Situated next to the Penang State Museum is the Roman Catholic Cathedral of the Assumption, one of Penang’s earliest religious landmarks. Shortly after his arrival in Penang in the year 1786, Captain Francis Light arranged for the relocation of the 1st batch of Roman Catholics to the island from their old parish in Kuala Kedah. Many of these early Roman Catholics were descended from unions between European settlers and Siamese women. The day they set foot on Penang marked the eve of the Feast of the Assumption, which is how the cathedral got its name. Originally founded at Church Street by Father Garnault in the same year, the church was later moved to Farquhar Street in 1802. The present church building was built in 1860 by Father Manissol and started service 1 year later. In the year 1955, the church was elevated to the status of cathedral of the Diocese of Penang following a Vatican decree.
St. George’s Church
On the other side of the Penang State Museum lies the oldest Anglican church in Southeast Asia. Built in the year 1816 in the Georgian Palladian architectural style, you can actually see why it’s one of my personal favourites among Penang’s many heritage buildings. When I was there, I couldn’t help myself but to whip out my camera phone to snap, snap, snap! A lovely memorial was erected right in front of the main church building to commemorate the centennial anniversary of Captain Francis Light’s founding of Penang. One can spot a lil’ resemblance between the church and its larger yet younger brother in Singapore, St. Andrew’s Cathedral. St. George’s Church was the only Penang landmark to be declared one of the 50 National Treasures of Malaysia by the Malaysian Government last year in conjunction with the country’s 50th Independence Day.
Goddess of Mercy Temple
Also known as the Kuan Yin Teng 观音亭, this temple was built in the year 1801 by the early Chinese settlers on a piece of land granted by the British East India Company. The ornate curved-ridge rooftops were decorated with dragons, an unmistakable symbol of classical Chinese architecture. Being a typical Chinese temple, the very first thing that you’re gonna see is the incense smoke that permeates the air and passes through every little crack and hole. I could hardly open my eyes the moment I stepped inside the temple. I mean, who’s got eyes that are truly smoke-resistant?
Masjid Kapitan Keling
Within a short walking distance of the Goddess of Mercy Temple stands the majestic Kapitan Keling Mosque, the largest and oldest historic mosque in Penang. Cauder Mohuddeen, a prominent Tamil Muslim merchant who was also the Kapitan Keling (Indian headman), founded the mosque in the year 1801 after the growing Indian Muslim community was granted an 18-acre lot by the then Lieutenant Governor of Penang, Sir George Leith. Over the years, numerous renovation and expansion works have been carried out until the German Eurasian architect, Henry Alfred Neubronner, was commissioned by the Muslim and Hindu Endowments Board to give the mosque a British Raj Moghul Revival appearance in 1910, a look that the mosque has maintained to this day. Besides the large central dome, the other significant feature of the mosque has got to be its minaret. Soaring gracefully into the clouds, the octagonal-shaped minaret is a conspicuous landmark in the historic quarter, and is easily recognized by domestic and foreign tourists alike. In comparison, however, I still think that Alor Star’s very own Masjid Zahir has a more striking exterior. Of course must support my hometown lah, right? :P
Acheen Street Malay Mosque
Tucked away in the wonderful sounds and smells of Little India is the colourful edifice of the Sri Mariamman Temple, Penang’s oldest Hindu temple. With a construction history dating back to the year 1833, the temple is an ideal place of refuge for George Town’s Hindu population. The first time we were here, the temple gates were closed. On our second trip here, we felt a lil’ bit luckier to see the gates opened wide. Carvings of Hindu deities adorned the walls and altars of the temple interiors, which were quite a sight to behold. Although this temple is located in the bustling district of Little India, you’ll instantly feel a moment of tranquillity once you step inside. It was probably my 1st time ever visiting a Hindu temple and I enjoyed every single bit of it. Quite an eye-opening experience, really…
Sri Mahamariamman Temple
Just a stone’s throw away from the Sri Mariamman Temple is the blue-and-white Nagore Durgha Sheriff Shrine. Founded in the early 1800s by the Tamil Muslim traders, this shrine is dedicated to Syed Shahul Hamid, a 16th-century Indian Muslim saint whose tradition was kept alive here when his followers brought it all the way to Penang from the town of Nagore in Tamil Nadu, South India. A similar shrine can also be found down south in Singapore.
Nagore Durgha Sheriff Shrine
If you happen to miss the previous parts of my PENANG HERITAGE TRAIL travel series, do check these out…
PART I : Francis Light’s footsteps: Penang’s colonial legacy
PART II: An island’s love affair with Great Britain
read these too...
c a t e g o r y | passport to nowhere
f l u f f e r p u f f | churches & cathedrals . malaysia . mosques & minarets . penang . religions & spirituality . temples & wats . travels
40 sOleiLians
40 sOleiLians
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angelic chup!
very sleepy now…
5 chups!
Why so sleepy? o.O
You’ll be a great writer for a travel mag.
3 chups!
Haha… A wonderful holiday destination would turn out to be boring if I were to tell the tale!
a walk down the “memory lane” again.
Interested join me for a photo shooting session in Penang?
Fuyoh! those temples can ask for magnum 4 digits a not?
Never know Jews lived in Penang. I do know that Singapore’s David Marshall was a Jew.
Did they leave any building? Maybe all torn down already.
Chen: 1 chup!
I only have a camera phone leh… No DSLR nor point-and-shoot. Moreover, I’m currently back in Alor Star. ;)
Yinsi Yat: Dunno wor… Nevermind, I’ll help you ask next time! :P
khengsiong: There’s a well-preserved Jewish cemetery at Jewish Road (the name of the road has been changed to Jalan Zainal Abidin, which is a very absurd move by the Government in my opinion), not far away from the KOMTAR Tower. However, many Malaysians do not know the existence of this place, not even Penangites! I’ve never been there before, so I’d love to visit it one day.
You can read more about Malaysian Jews here: History of the Jews in Malaysia
How interesting are your posts! And we realise your passion for the architecture!
I am always interesting about the ideas humen created to explain the world and the univer! Not only religious but philosophical too!
You have a fabulous architectural heritage!
Oh thank you, thank you! Architecture is a living art and knowledge. It evolves with time, people, cultures, and places! ;)
u should pay a visit to the Jewish cemetery in Penang. I visited that Jewish Cemetery a year ago :)
How I wish! By the way, I did read that entry of yours before. Thanks for giving us a peek at that relatively unknown place. ;)
Hi Kyh! Sorry for having taken so long to get here. Another hectic week… It’s a wonderful blog with beautiful pictures and an interesting text to make us learn a lot. I’ll come here often to check what’s new and see the old stuff!!
Thanks also for your comments at Blogtrotter. Great pleasure to see and read you there! Hope you have a nice weekend!
No problem! :D
Thanks for your compliments. Yours is a fantastic read too. I love it! Keep it up… ;)
Wah, your few days trip become few months “trip” in your blog eh? LOL.
It was actually a half-day trip. :P
i see religion (or the lack of) as not so much of a debate but a denial.
Denial of science? But they’ll prove to you that science is completely compatible with religion! :D
Lovely photos there! I think we have to give some credit to the British for being relatively tolerant on religions although many films depicting the era seemed to suggest otherwise.
Was about to ask about Jewish synagogues until I saw khengsiong’s comment.
@ehonchan,
Love those buildings, not the religions… :)
Some people here may be staunch nationalists and abhor everything that has association with colonialism, I don’t. In fact, without the Brits, there’ll be no modern Malaysia we’ve all come to know and appreciate today. And hey, there’ll be no modern Singapore too! The Brits helped to transform these 2 countries from slums and sleepy fishing villages into thriving international ports which greatly shaped the future of both Malaysia and Singapore.
Yeah… Love the buildings and heritage!
Those are really great shots. I absolutely love the melting pot aspect of Penang. Something for everybody.
Happy weekend!
Very interesting!
Penang is a must visit for me next time :)
Wow.. you are using only camera phone for those beautiful pictures? Unbelievable! What’s your phone type?
kyh,
May I know what camera phone you are using? Quality is quite good.
I love the picture of the temple and the incense burning. I can almost smell it… you really captured the atmosphere.
Of all the buildings I only saw the Indian Temple. hehe…
Must go vist the Kuan Imm Temple when i go to Penang.
Andie Summerkiss: Thanks… That’s why I love Penang! :D
Happy weekend too!
Selba: Oh, do come here for a visit! ;)
I’m using Sony Ericsson K800i. Love it to bits! :P
khengsiong: I’ve stated my phone model in my reply to Selba‘s comment. ;)
Zhu: I love that photo too! :D
eastcoastlife: Why leh? o.O
Do come then! ;)
Wow.. I’m amazed with K800i, I’ve been using K700i but the picture quality is low, yours is so goooooddddd!!!! Lately, I was actually thinking to change my handphone to nokia :)
Nokia’s great too! There are some models with built-in Wi-Fi… Man!
Nice entry yo….=P
if u din say that ur using camera phone to snap those pictures, i really thought that you`re using those canggih phone oh…
nice pictures…=)
Terima kasih banyak banyak! :D
Eh, I seriously think Penang tourism board should put your links in their site and pay you for such an informative posts about Penang. Hehehehe
I have the same thought too! Hehe…
What a lovely, readable and interesting post and with great pics too – what breath taking architecture.
This is very fascinating and quite exotic for a Norwegian. I really wanna go there one day!
Thanks… Penang’s ready to see you here one day! ;)
I was just about to comment that the Indian temple resembled the one I saw in Singapore’s Little India….no wonder la…
Hehe… :D
kyh,
In Singapore, we have a popular Kuan Imm Temple which many foreign devotees from around the region visit whenever they are here.
I just want to see how the Kuan Imm Temple looks like in Penang. :)
The one shown in this blog entry is the only one we visited that day. There’s another famous one but I’ve yet to visit it. :)
Nice photography. I realised I had missed checking out some of these places when I was in Penang a few years ago.
Thanks… I guess you’d have to come back here some day soon! ;)